Israel made it’s way on and off our RTW itinerary multiple times. At one point we planned on spending a few weeks exploring as much of the country as we could cram in. Over time though (and copious amounts of planning and reading), other destinations crept up on the list and soon Israel didn’t make the cut. However, when we realized we were planning to be in Jordan, right next door to Israel, over Easter AND Passover we knew we couldn’t pass up the opportunity. It would be such a shame to be so close and not spend Easter in Jerusalem!
I made some hasty plans, didn’t research nearly enough, and we spent a few whirlwind days doing as much touring as we could possibly fit in. I wish I would’ve had Melissa’s incredible guide to Israel with kids, or even her family there to join us…but their RTW plans ebbed and flowed like ours and ultimately our paths didn’t cross. We were on our own!
Crossing The Border from Jordan to Israel
Our arrival into Jerusalem was not as smooth as I had anticipated, but we made it none-the-less. I dislike spending money when I don’t have to, however I’ve come to accept that sometimes, when traveling, it’s necessary. Getting from Amman to Jerusalem was one of these times.
For the border journey we pre-booked a private van that was supposed to take us door-to-door from Amman to Jerusalem. We woke up early and were ready for the van … but it never came. We ended up taking 2 separate Ubers. I went with the girls and Randy rode with our friends. One driver cancelled when he discovered where we were going, so Randy’s car was about 20 minutes behind mine. Once we were all re-united at the Jordanian border, we attempted to figure out how to go about getting across. I normally research everything like crazy, but assuming we’d be taking a private van for the entire journey, I hadn’t looked into this crossing at all!
As with many borders, you’re not allowed to walk. So, we took one of the special taxis to the Jordanian side of the border. Megan & I grabbed a coffee and I learned that we needed to purchase a ticket for the bus to take us across to the Israeli side. The whole time I was crossing my fingers, hoping we’ be able to find a way to Jerusalem on the other side.
The actual border process was quite smooth. Rather than receiving a stamp in our passports, we got a small entry card. Considering we’d been stamped out at the Jordan/Israel border, I don’t think any Arabic countries would let us in anyways. Never-the-less, we got a tourist card to keep track of. Once firmly through the border process I found a bank machine and withdrew some Shekels.
There were taxis waiting on the other side, and a sign posted listing various destinations and their corresponding prices. It was comforting to have a fixed price, however since we needed 2 taxis I wanted to be able to negotiate! I always find negotiating so exhausting, but I was so used to it at this point that I felt almost cheated because I wasn’t able to haggle for a fair price.
We split up again, however this time Randy didn’t have to worry about me driving off the edge of the cliff. The taxis followed each other the entire way into Jerusalem and swiftly deposited us at the edge of the Old City. I could feel the energy in the air as soon as I stepped out of the taxi.
We Made It To Jerusalem
This was it! Jerusalem. One of the most important cities in the world. An ancient city, and one of the most significant centers for all of the world’s major religions. A city for which battles have been fought throughout the millennia. A city for which battles are still fought today. To me, Jerusalem felt special. It felt like a city worth fighting for.
As we walked over the cobblestone streets and wound through the narrow alleyways of the Christian Quarter, the hassle (and money!) it took to get here was quickly forgotten. It was instantly worth it. We were in Jerusalem, for Easter!
Jerusalem was the only time, in the whole year, I had an accommodation cancel on us. Sure, I didn’t book many accommodations ahead of time, but when I did it was for a reason. In Jerusalem we were traveling with 7 people, and we were going to be in the City during one of the busiest times of the year. I was incredibly annoyed when our cute little apartment canceled 6 weeks before our visit, but I managed to find 2 private rooms (with shared bathroom) in a hostel right by Jaffa Gate.
The location was ideal, and the price was the best that could be expected during peak season in an already expensive city. I’ve stayed in quite a few hostels in my life, but this was the strangest hostel I’ve ever been in. Not only were there rooms available to rent, but they also rented out floor space! By early evening, every bench had someone staking claim to it. When we woke in the morning, there was barely a pathway through the hallways and common areas as people laid themselves and their things on any available piece of floor they could find. I was grateful we were able to be in a private room, even if the “fourth” bed was just the window sill!
We really only had 2 full days in Jerusalem and planned to make the most of it.
Visiting The Church Of The Holy Sepulchre
The girls and I visited The Church on the Saturday between Good Friday and Easter Sunday. The church was relatively quiet, all things considered. With my Lonely Planet guide in hand, we made our way around the Church, taking in as many sights as we could. I don’t think the girls were able to fully comprehend what they were seeing, although in the moment they were fully caught up in it.
At one point I couldn’t find Kacela, she’d disappeared. After a few minutes of frantic searching I found her in front of a group of people, quietly watching a group of priests chanting in the nave. She’d slithered her way through the crowd and was completely enthralled with what was going on around her.
My second visit was just myself and Randy, late in the afternoon on Easter Sunday. We wandered past the same things I’d seen with the girls. It was jam-packed with people, but without the worry of the girls we were able to take our time and fully appreciate where we were.
The centerpiece of the church is a small chapel atop the location of Jesus’ tomb. We didn’t go inside, because the line-up was insanely long, but just standing beside it gave me goosebumps. I’m sure Jerusalem is incredible to visit any time of the year. However, being in the exact spot of Jesus’ resurrection, on the day in which we celebrate it, made it even more special.
Visiting Bethlehem With Kids
It was impossible for us, as Christians, to visit Jerusalem and not go to Bethlehem. There are a number of tours that go from the Old City, but a tour was our absolute last resort. I figured we should be able to do it on our own, and we did!
We caught Arab Bus 21 from the large bus terminal just outside Damascus gate. As we approached the West Bank, the giant wall loomed over us. It’s imposing presence immediately making me nervous. Just the sight of it made me wonder if we were doing the right thing. Should we really be crossing over? Should we be taking the kids into Bethlehem?
The crossing from Jerusalem into the West Bank was relatively straight forward. There was no one manning the border crossing, I guess the Israeli government isn’t really concerned about people entering Palestine. We walked through a series of passageways and a turn-style, and we popped out, back into the sunshine, in Palestine. We were immediately assaulted with a number of taxi drivers offering to take us around. This was comforting, and made me realize that we weren’t crazy, nor were we the only ones to do this!
Before going anywhere, I wanted to walk along the wall. The interior surfaces are covered with artwork, graffiti, quotes and stories from West Bank residents. The girls asked about the wall, and I didn’t really know how to explain it to them. I don’t know enough myself, especially to portray an unbiased account. As an outsider, it’s impossible to fully comprehend the events that have led to this. We have friends that are Palestinian, and friends that are Jewish. I couldn’t help but think about them all as I walked along the wall.
Centuries of fighting over the same sacred ground have brought us to this point. Decades of arguing over our differences rather than celebrating our similarities. It’s found not just here, but all over the world. We’ve seen it this year throughout Myanmar, in Kashgar, China and Amritsar, India. It just seems to be amplified in Jerusalem. Because here, at the center of the holiest of sites, is where it matters the most.
After a sombre walk along the wall, lightened up by Ethan’s heroic rescue of Calais’ elastic from a storm drain, it was time to haggle for a taxi. We found a mini-van taxi and negotiated 200ILS to take us to the Church of the Nativity and the Shepherd’s Field. Rachel’s Tomb is the other commonly visited site in Bethlehem, however we felt like the kids could only handle so much!
The Church Of The Nativity
The first stop was the Church of the Nativity. We found a guide out front for 100ILS, and Kacela rolled her eyes once we agreed to a price. Little did she know that in this situation I’m 100% sure the guide SAVED us time! He talked a bit about the interior structure of the church, and we admired the mosaic tiles of the floor. Then it was time to make our way down to the place where Jesus was born.
Our guide managed to side-step half the line and got us through the throngs of people in a fraction of the time it would’ve taken us on our own. The place of the Nativity is in a small room at the back of the church, underneath the pulpit. There’s a sizeable staircase leading to a tiny door, with people pushing from all directions. Once inside it was significantly warmer, but a bit calmer. Calm enough that we were able to appreciate the significance of the moment. The girls prayed and kissed the star on the floor, feeling the presence and the power of this sacred place.
It was Saturday, the day before Easter Sunday and the first day of Passover. Most of the shops and restaurants in Bethlehem were closed because of missile fire that had occurred earlier that morning at the Gaza strip. I still don’t know exactly what happened, but from what I gathered the businesses were closed in some kind of revolt. We did manage to find somewhere to eat lunch, just in front of the Church. The food at Casa Nova Pilgrim House was good, and there was plenty of shade.
The Shepherd’s Field
We kind of did things backwards. If we were going in order it would’ve made the most sense to visit the Shepherd’s Field BEFORE the Church of the Nativity. However, we did it in order of importance, because if we only made it to one stop, we all wanted that to be the Church! The kids had a second wind after lunch so we made our way to the Shephard’s Field.
To be honest, it wasn’t all that interesting! I was picturing a big open field, with a few olive trees scattered here and there, and a view of the countryside all around. It’s perched on the top of a hill, with a view of the countryside, but it’s not a big open field! It’s quite built up with a waterless fountain, church and excavation area for an old Byzantine Church. Of course I should’ve expected it to be built up, but it definitely didn’t meet my expectations!
