Jordan is one of those destinations that conjures up wild fantasies. Images of Hollywood-inspired bounty hunters and lost treasure initially come to mind. Add to that the fact that Petra is one of the “New 7 Wonders of The World”, and it’s easy to see why so many travelers dream of seeing this amazing country.
A visit to Jordan is has been on my bucket list ever since I watched Indiana Jones as a kid. The mysterious walk down the Siq, anxiously awaiting that first view of the Treasury at Petra, was one of my most anticipated travel experiences ever! And Petra is just barely scratching the surface of what there is to do here. Jordan is a fantastic country to visit, whether your traveling solo, as a couple or with a family. Almost every activity can appeal to everyone, so no one gets left behind!
We spent an obsessively-planned, amazing 10 days in Jordan. For all the planning, we did some things right, and some things wrong. Based on our triumphs and our failures, I can confidently recommend the ideal Jordan itinerary for 5 days, 7 days and 10 days.
Jordan is an incredibly diverse country with a lot to do!! If you have a week in Jordan you’ll be able to hit the major tourist sites; Amman, Jerash, Wadi Rum, Petra and the Dead Sea. You’ll be on the move, with no down time, but 7 days in Jordan is enough to do it all if you want. So sit back, grab a pen & paper, and plan your incredible trip to Jordan. Also, check out this Jordan country guide for all the logistical information before you go!
Buy a Jordan Pass
I got the best piece of advice prior to visiting Jordan, and I’m passing that piece of advice on to you. BUY A JORDAN PASS!!! If you’re wondering whether it’s worth it or not, read up on what it is and why you need a Jordan Pass. It will surely confirm that you should buy one!
If you plan to visit most of the sites in this itinerary (which, if you’re traveling to Jordan, you should be!), the Jordan Pass will save you money. It’ll serve as your Visa into the country, and provide access to most of the important tourist sites. You’ll choose your pass based on the number of days you want to spend in Petra. I suggest getting the Jordan Explorer (2-day Petra pass), as 1 day in Petra just isn’t enough.
The only catch, is that you have to purchase the pass BEFORE you enter the country, which you’ll want to do anyways as it’s also your entry Visa. You also have to spend 3 nights (4 days) in Jordan. The Jordan Pass is quick and easy to purchase online, and you can download to your mobile phone (and save a tree!). Just show the pass at the border when you enter, and then again at all the sites along the way.
*expert tip – Take a screen shot of our passes then added it as a “favourite” in your phone. It’ll be much faster to find when you’re at the various attractions.
*kid tip – Children under 12 don’t pay for entry into the tourist sites, so they won’t need a Jordan Pass. Instead, you’ll just pay the 40JD Visa fee for them at the border, and they get 2 cool stickers in their passport!!)
Jordan 1 week itinerary
This Jordan one week itinerary begins and ends in Amman. This is where the Queen Ali international airport is located, and is where you’re most likely to enter and exit. Of course, you could also come across the border from Israel, however the main crossing is close enough to Amman that it’s still a great place to begin and end. You can also mix this itinerary up a bit and work your way North to South; Amman, the Dead Sea, Petra and Wadi Rum or vice versa from South to North. However you do it, 1 week in Jordan is sure to leave a lasting impression and make you want to come back for more!
Amman: 2 days
Day 1 – Amman
Spend the morning slowly wandering around the city. Visit Rainbow Street if you’re looking for souvenirs (so you don’t leave it to the last minute!) and stop for a coffee or Mint Tea at one of the many cafes. Work your way towards the center of town and the base of the hill housing the Amman Citadel.
Stop for lunch at Hashem restaurant. Fill up on traditional salads (Hummus, Tzatziki & Tahini) veggies, falafel and chips. Of course, your meal wouldn’t be complete without mint tea! You’ll need all the energy you can get before starting your uphill walk to the entrance to the Citadel.
*expert tip – Amman is a VERY hilly city, so the directions on google maps can be misleading. If you’re planning on walking, give yourself extra time, because something that looks close on google might be over 2 hills and take much longer than you anticipate!
Amman Citadel
The Citadel of Amman is considered to be one of the world’s oldest continually inhabited places (link to Wikipedia). It’s located on top of Jabal al-Qal’a, the highest of the original seven hills to make up Amman. Wandering around the hill top you can see remnants of a Hercules Temple (including his giant hand) and a Byzantine Church, amongst other ruins. These were built during the Roman occupation of Amman, during the time of Marcus Aurelius.
Even if you don’t care about the ruins, you should visit for the view! The location is spectacular, perched on top of the hill overlooking the entire city. There are 360’ views, worth the entrance fee alone. The best part, it’s included in the Jordan Pass, so you can go just for the views if you want! It’s worth taking your time to read the info-boards, thoroughly explore the ruins, and wander through the Jordan Archaeological Museum. Finish with a cold drink or ice cream from the café near the entrance. Also, take the opportunity to go to the bathroom here because you won’t find one again easily until dinner!
*kid tip – Once you enter the Jordan Archaeological Museum, turn left and start by examining the various items on display. Talk about their features and characteristics (hint: they’re very basic to start!). As you make your way clockwise around the museum, talk about how the items are changing. Discuss the lives of the people who made and/or used these objects.
As you exit the Citadel, circle around to the right and follow the stairs down the hill to the Amphitheatre and Hashemite Square.
Amman Amphitheatre
The amphitheatre was built in the second century and is large enough to house 6000 people. Visiting as the sun is starting to lower in the sky gives it a beautiful ambience. There are two small museums as part of the complex, the Jordan Museum of Popular Tradition and the Jordan Folklore Museum. Both are worth a quick visit before climbing up the stairs for a view from the top.
By the time you’re done exploring it’ll be time to eat again. You have two options. If you want something less-Middle Eastern you can head to Oliva for yummy pizza or pasta. Or, if you’d like Jordanian food, and to support a good cause, go to Wild Jordan instead. Both are walkable from the Amphitheatre, but they’re both uphill, tiring walks. If you’re up for it, go ahead and walk! If not, call an Uber to pick you up in front of the Amphitheatre.
*kid tip – The Family Café at Wild Jordan is incredibly well set up for kids. There are bean bag chairs, games and a tv loaded with kids shows. While you’re waiting for your food, parents can enjoy a drink with the view while the kids play. It’s the perfect place to unwind after a long day of walking around Amman!
Total Drive Time Day 1: None (other than a few taxi rides if you’re smart!)
Day 2 Amman Day Trip
If you only have 5 days you’ll have to skip this, but if you have more time you’ll want to head north to Jerash & Umm Quais.
Jerash
Jerash is an incredible ancient city spanning a large area just an hour North of Amman. There’s history of human settlement here as far back as 5500BC, although the ruins themselves date to the first century AD.
Start your visit to Jerash by walking under Hadrian’s Arch, then stop by the Church of Marianos ahead on the right to see the mosaic floor. If you’re interested, you can buy tickets for the twice-daily performances at the Hippodrome. Secure your seat prior to continuing your visit.
Stop in at the Jerash Museum for a quick look at the small collection of artifacts, and use the toilets here if you need! Then, follow the walkway to the Oval Plaza/Forum, the heart of the Ancient City of Jerash. From here you have 2 options. If you have a bit of time, I’d suggest taking a short detour up the hill to the temple of Zeus. If you’re pressed for time, walk straight up the Cardo Maximus. The most notable stops along the Cardo are the Nymphaeum (fountain), the Temple of Artemis (which requires a decent climb up some uneven stairs!), and the Northern Theatre. As you walk, try to picture the sides of the cardo lined with small shops selling pottery, cloth and spices. In a few places you can see the stone wall that would have divided each shop.
By the time you’re done it’ll be time for lunch. There are lots of options, but I’d recommend Lebanese House. It’s a bit touristy, but the food is great and the location is about as close to the ruins as you can get.
*kid tip – Lebanese House has a small play area so the kids can blow off a bit of steam while waiting for food. That is, if they’re not too tired from walking around the ruins!
After lunch, it’s back in the car for the 1 hr 20 min drive to Umm Qays.
Umm Qays (Umm Qais)
Umm Qays is the site of the ancient Decapolis city of Gadara. Gadara was the center of Greek culture in the region, although the city spent a lot of it’s life passed back and forth between Syrian and Egyptian rule before finally being liberated by the Romans in 63BC. The site features beautiful black basalt theatre steps, creamy limestone columns, and an abandoned Ottoman Village. The site is generally quiet in the late afternoon except for Friday (when it can get busy), so time your visit accordingly!
The other striking thing about Umm Qays is the view. It’s perched on the top of the hill looking out over the Sea of Galilea, the Golan Heights and Syria. Take a few moments to contemplate how lucky you are to be free and able to travel, and say a silent prayer for those suffering across the border in Syria.
Rather than rush into town, sit down on the lovely terrace and enjoy dinner at the Umm Qays Restaurant. Watch the sun set over the Sea of Galilea, and the lights start to come on across the Syrian side of the border.
Total Drive Time Day 2: 240 km taking 4 hr total (divided into 3 stretches)
Amman: Know Before You Go
Where To Stay in Amman
Budget – Hostel 1930
With a fantastic location in central Amman, and informative, friendly staff, this is the best budget accommodation in Amman. The rooms are all small dorms, so if you’re in a group of 4 (or 6) you can book an entire room for yourself. There are board games in the common room and breakfast is included.
Click here to check the latest prices at Hostel 1930
Mid-Range – Nomads Hotel
Located close to Rainbow Street and Hashem’s restaurant, this is a newly renovated hotel in a great location in central Amman. The staff is helpful and continental breakfast is included! There are double rooms, dorms and family rooms.
Click to find Nomads Hotel’s most current pricing.
High-End – Fairmont Amman
I’m always a sucker for Fairmont properties, and although the Fairmont Amman isn’t a beautiful historic property, it has a great location with a commanding view of the city. The rooms are crisp and modern, and the staff is incredibly helpful.
Click here and look up today’s Farmont Amman prices.
Family Friendly – Arabian Suites Amman
This is a small apartment building with a handful of 1 and 2 bedroom apartments. It’s located in a quiet residential neighbourhood within walking distance to restaurants and shops. The owner is incredibly kind and full of great information about Amman.
Click here to book Arabian Suites Amman
Where To Eat in Amman
Hashem Restaurant Down Town
This restaurant is an Amman staple, and a must-do if you’re in the city! It’s busy most of the day, but it’s large enough you shouldn’t have to wait too long for a table.
Wild Jordan Center
This center offers delicious food, an incredible view, and a socially responsible gift shop. A purchase here supports a good cause, whether you stop in for dinner or just a drink. The Hub is a great space to sit and work on your laptop, The Trail is ideal for a couple to grab dinner, and The Family Café is packed with stuff for the kids to do. It’s nice that the spaces are all a bit separate, as no one feels like a bother to anyone else.
Oliva Jordan
If you’ve just arrived in the Middle East the you likely won’t have had your fill of local cuisine, but if you’ve been in the area for a while this Italian restaurant offers a pleasant change from the usual kebab and hummus.
Where To Eat in Jerash
Lebanese House
Located nice and close to the ruins, this restaurant is air conditioned and has a small play area (if you’re traveling with kids). The food is good, even if a little expensive, but the location makes it worth the stop.
Where To Eat in Umm Qais
The restaurant at the viewpoint offers a delicious meal at a fair price, and a phenomenal view over the valley below.
Getting Around Amman
Amman is a complex city to navigate, so even though I recommend renting a car for the rest of your time in Jordan, I don’t recommend driving yourself in Amman! You can walk (although see my tip above, Amman is VERY hilly and everything is further and more difficult to get to than it looks!), but I’d recommend using taxis and Uber. Prices are reasonable and it sure beats walking in the heat!
Wadi Rum: 1 day
Day 3 – Wadi Rum Desert
Staying overnight in the Wadi Rum desert should be at the top of any Jordan itinerary! Famous for being the location for movie The Martian, it truly looks like you’ve entered another planet.
The Wadi Rum Village is about a 4 hour drive from Amman. You should plan to arrive around noon so you can have the entire afternoon exploring the desert with your guide. You’ll spend the afternoon drinking mint tea beside a sand dune, searching for petroglyphs in a ravine and riding camels in the desert (only if you want to, of course!). The program differs slightly based on which tour company you use, but they tend to all hit up the same general sites.
*expert tip – plan to either eat lunch at the village, or arrange for your driver to bring a picnic lunch to enjoy in the desert. It’s a long time from breakfast to the evening meal, and you’ll only get a small snack upon arrival to your desert camp late in the afternoon.
After a few hours in the desert you’ll arrive at your camp for the night. There should still be lots of time for more desert exploration. Grab a snack and a drink (of water) and then explore the rocks and cliffs surrounding the camp. Find the perfect spot to perch yourself and watch a magical sunset over the desert. Make sure you bring a phone or headlamp with you in case it’s dark once you’re making your way back to camp.
You’ll still likely have time to relax in the dining tent for a bit before dinner’s ready. Enjoy a glass of mint tea, smoke a Hookah and visit with the other travelers staying at the camp. Depending on the camp you’ve chosen, you might have the opportunity for a quick shower as well to wash off the desert sand. If this is a possibility, do it sooner rather than later as the hot water probably won’t last through everyone!
After dinner, grab your flashlight and go for a short stroll out into the desert. Find a rock to sit back on, and enjoy the brilliant night sky unencumbered by city lights. Soak it all in, this may be one of your most memorable nights in Jordan!
*expert tip – It is DARK at night so you’ll want a flashlight or headlamp. I suggest these great USB charging black diamond headlamps. They’re our family favourite!
Total Drive Time Day 3: 319km, taking 4 hrs to the Wadi Rum Village.
Know Before You Go To Wadi Rum
Where To Stay
Wadi Rum Bedouin Tour With a Camp
There are a lot of options for staying overnight in the Wadi Rum desert, but this one is locally owned and authentic.
Click here to book the Wadi Rum Bedouin Tour with a Camp or check booking.com for other great options in Wadi Rum.
Petra: 2 days
Day 4 – Petra (The Treasury)
The next morning you’ll wake with the sun and enjoy a breakfast of eggs, cold meats, cheese and bread before heading back to the Village with your driver. Ask to be back at the Village no later than 10am so you’ll still have lots of time to explore Petra this afternoon! The drive to Wadi Musa (the city where Petra is located) takes about 2 hours. Once you arrive, grab some lunch and head straight to Petra for the afternoon.
*kid tip – if you want to save your kid’s energy for walking around the actual site of Petra, you can hire a carriage for 20 JD ($37 CAD) for 2 people, to take you down the Siq from the Visitor Center to the Treasury and back. You don’t have to return immediately, you can make an appointment to return later in the day. Alternatively, if the kids are walking, make sure they’re listening for the clip-clop of the horses so they stay off to the side when the carriages come past.
The first day in Petra is all about the anticipatory 1.2km walk down the Siq and the first view of the Treasury. Take your time enjoying that first view because once you step out of the narrow canyon the tourist onslaught is full-on!! There are dressed up and decorated camels and donkeys, and touts selling all sorts of unnecessary knick-knacks you’ll think you might need. Do your best to avoid these if you want, and head straight to the front to attempt a people-free picture with the famous Treasury.
