Petra has firmly put Jordan on many travel bucket lists. The thought of walking down the cavernous Siq, anxiously awaiting that first glimpse of the brilliantly carved façade of the Treasury, is enough to elicit goosebumps. Unrest in neighbouring countries has scared many tourists away from Jordan, however this needn’t be the case! Jordan is friendly, safe and welcoming for all tourists, including families. Trust me, visiting a visit to Petra with Kids is not something you want to miss! And if you’re thinking of heading to Jordan, make the most of your visit. Hop on over & check out my 7-10 day family itinerary!
When visiting Petra, most people stay in the adjacent town of Wadi Musa. I looked at hotels in Wadi Musa but they just didn’t seem to offer up the experience I was hoping for. Sure, they’d be great if we were just gonna buzz in and buzz out, see the ruins, then carry on to the next site. However, I wanted a more meaningful, local experience.
I found a Bedouin tent near Uum Sayhoun that looked perfect! However, after some uncertainty with the hostel situation in Jerusalem, we decided that a bit more traditional accommodation would be better. Still not willing to commit to a hotel in town, we found an apartment in Uum Sayhoun. It was owned by a local Bedouin family, and promised to provide us with a more local experience than Wadi Musa. After an incredible night in the Wadi Rum Desert, we were definitely excited for another local stay!
We had a bit of trouble actually finding the place. Then, upon our arrival, we discovered an archaeology grad-student in one of the rooms we’d rented (he moved in with the owner’s family in the apartment across the hall for our visit). After a bit of unease and uncertainty, we settled in. I didn’t let this detract from the excitement. It felt like Christmas Eve! The next morning we’d be playing Indiana Jones in Petra!
The First Day In Petra
We woke early, wanting to give ourselves as much time as possible at the sites. It was surprisingly cold! Although the day time highs were warm, the mornings were freezing (not literally, but it felt like it!). After using our Jordan Passes to get our entrance tickets, we decided it was time for a warm drink. The little cafeteria was open, so we stopped in for coffees for the adults and hot chocolates for the kids. Considering we were at one of the 7 New Wonders of The World, I guess it wasn’t too expensive, but it felt like we paid a small fortune for our drinks! I was grateful for it though as we made our way to the Siq.
Walking The Siq
There are a number of sites along the walkway from the front gate to the Treasury. Not wanting to rush the journey, we took our time and tried to find them all. We had the kids on the look out for the Dijon blocks, the Obelisk Tomb and the Dam. We didn’t have a guide with us, and just read a bit about each place on our map and in my Lonely Planet Guidebook. Between sites, the kids climbed along the ledge separating the walkway from the horse & carriages, and we looked ahead as the cliffs rose up, waiting to swallow us into them.
Once inside the canyon we knew we were getting close. The girls enjoyed running ahead, and did their best to listen for the horses to ensure they got out of the way of the carriages that now shared the narrow space. Kacela decided to walk along a ridge in the wall at one point because she knew it would keep her safe from the horses. Personally, I think that was just an excuse to climb a little bit!
The width of the walkway ebbed and flowed. At times it was so wide that we hardly felt like we were walking through a canyon. At other times it narrowed to barely more than a crevice. On the walls we could still see the remainder of the clay pipes that formed the aqueduct system, bringing water to this ancient Nabatean city in the middle of the desert.
After walking through the canyon for about 20min, the top of the treasury became visible. I stopped. There were a few people ahead of us, and I wanted to wait for them to get out of the way so I’d have an unobstructed view.
The moment was what I had hoped for. The air was calm and cool, the cliff edges rose up tightly on either side of me, and the Treasury could be seen through the narrow crack up ahead. From this angle it looked quiet, like we might have the whole place to ourselves. It was a pleasant illusion, but I appreciated it.
The Treasury (Al Kazneh)
Leaving the cool boundaries of the canyon was like stepping into a different world. Crowds of people could be seen in every direction, decorated camels and donkeys posed for pictures, and it was almost impossible to avoid the ambitious locals selling everything from magnets to scarves. We were able to make our way to the very front of the treasury and take a few family pics without anyone else impeding the view.
Even early in the morning it was busier than I expected. The walk down the Siq to the Treasury was incredible, but the actual Treasury itself was a bit of a let-down. Maybe it’s because I’ve seen it in pictures so many times. Or, maybe it wasn’t the serene & peaceful experience I’d secretly hoped for. Either way, I found it underwhelming and lacked the desire to linger as long as I thought I would. I forced myself to take a couple extra seconds to soak it in and really try to appreciate it, then we made our way down the Street of Facades to the Theatre.
The Theatre
Once we were away from the Treasury, the crown thinned to something much more enjoyable. The red rock and intricately carved cliff faces surrounding us were spectacular. It was easy to imagine everyday life happening here a few thousand years ago. The cliffs provided shelter from the hot sun, creating a comfortable oasis in the middle of the desert.
As with many other structures in Petra, the Theatre was something we could look at but not touch. After climbing the immense and incredibly well preserved amphitheatre in Amman, the small, inaccessible Theatre in Petra didn’t hold our attention for long. The kids were able to climb on the wall that was keeping them out of the “fun part”, but that just reminded them they couldn’t do what they wanted! We soon found ourselves winding our way further up the path to the small shop and refreshment stand owned by the Rizek, the man who also owned our apartment.
A Picnic Lunch In Petra
I always enjoy people watching, and Petra is a fantastic place for this! We sat on small couches, in the shade of the refreshment stand, and watched people walk by while enjoying a mint tea and some water. After our drinks, we decided we were actually hungry! We’d packed a lunch in with us, so we made our way across the path to some rocky outcrops just below the Royal Tombs and sat in the shade to enjoy our picnic lunch in Petra.
The Great temple
There’s just so much to see in Petra that it feels like it’s almost impossible to see it all. Many of the facades can be appreciated from afar, and after a while they all start to look similar. It was a short walk up to the Royal tombs, but we decided to admire them from the bottom. Had we not been exploring Petra with kids we likely would’ve walked the short distance to see them up close and personal, but everyone seemed content to stay on the lowest ground possible. Instead, we walked up the Colonaded street to the Great Temple.
Beyond the Great Temple the path leads up to the Monastery, and that was on our itinerary for the following day. Instead we took the opportunity to use the bathroom facilities and prepared ourselves for the LONG walk retracing our steps back to the car. The kids spent some time playing in the dirt (in the shade) and watched the camels and donkeys walk by, with and without tourists on their backs. I considered paying for a ride back to the entrance, but it seemed unnecessary. I’m never one for giving my kids a break from walking! I fear if I do it once they’ll always expect it!!
A Local Bedouin Evening
The evening after our first day in Petra was one of my most memorable from our entire year-long trip. We went across the hall to Rizek’s apartment, where his wife had laid out a traditional Bedouin meal for us. We sat on the floor around a large platter of food, using our fingers to scoop up the rice, veggies and meat into delicious little bite-sized balls.
After dinner we took our mint tea outside and joined the family in their nightly routine. The adults sat on the sidewalk, drinking tea and gossiping, while the kids played in the streets around us. I always love watching the girls play with local kids, and how quickly they find ways to communicate without a common language. Play is the common language, and it never takes long for everyone to participate in whatever game is going on.
As I sat sipping my tea in the warm evening air, talking with the neighbours and watching the kids play together, I felt incredibly grateful. It was a tiny little window into the lives of these people, and they let us be part of it, if only for a night.
A few tour buses rolled past, whisking tourists from Petra back to their Western hotel for a “normal” dinner. I felt sorry for them, and a little smug! I was sad thinking that although they’d SEEN Petra, they really hadn’t experienced Petra and it’s incredible hospitality. Walking down the Siq, seeing the Treasury, and marveling at the impressive history was extraordinary. But sitting on the street, drinking tea with the local Bedouin family, was just as awesome, if not more so.
Day Two In Petra With Kids
We followed up our wonderful evening on the street with an equally amazing day hiking the “back way” into the Monastery, and selling camels in front of the Great Temple.
The Back Way Into Petra
The back way into the Monastery is limited to those hiking with a Bedouin Guide. Luckily for us, Rizek (the owner of the apartment) is Bedouin, and it just happened to be Sunday, his day off! He offered to escort us in the back way (for a fee, of course!). The hike was beautiful, and fairly easy to manage for the kids. As we walked, I enjoyed watching the sun constantly change the colours of the mountains around us. There were all different shades of white, grey, black and red. I found it fascinating how different the mountains could be in such close proximity to each other.